Waddington's triumph is a testament to the power of costume design in storytelling. Her work for "Poor Things" transcended mere clothing; it became an integral part of the film's identity. From the meticulously crafted Victorian-inspired gowns to the subtly subversive and dreamlike touches, Waddington's costumes breathed life into the fantastical world of "Poor Things."
Waddington's approach to costume design in "Poor Things" was a masterclass in blending historical accuracy with imaginative flair. The film, set in the 19th century, features a cast of characters adorned in Victorian attire. However, Waddington's costumes avoid a strictly historical depiction. They incorporate subtle anachronisms and surreal flourishes, reflecting the film's darkly comedic and fantastical elements.
One of the most striking examples is the costume worn by Emma Stone's character, Bella Baxter. Bella is a young woman with a transplanted brain, a unique premise that presented Waddington with a fascinating design challenge. Bella's costumes throughout the film showcase a duality: a youthful innocence juxtaposed with a hint of Victorian propriety. We see her in flowing, pastel-colored dresses that evoke a sense of fragility, yet the use of unconventional materials and unexpected details hints at the extraordinary nature of her being.
Waddington's brilliance lies in her ability to seamlessly weave together seemingly disparate elements. The Victorian silhouettes of the costumes create a sense of grounding in reality. However, the use of bold colors, unconventional textures like feathers and sequins, and unexpected layering add a layer of whimsy and intrigue. This playfulness extends to the accessories, with hats adorned with fantastical embellishments and jewelry that appears both vintage and strangely futuristic.
This approach is particularly evident in the costumes worn by the supporting characters. Gwendolyn Baxter (played by Ruth Wilson), Bella's adopted mother, is portrayed through a series of imposing Victorian mourning dresses. However, Waddington infuses these seemingly traditional garments with a sense of theatricality through the use of dramatic sleeves, exaggerated ruffles, and a color palette that veers from the typical black to a more vibrant emerald green.
Waddington's costumes don't just serve an aesthetic purpose; they are crucial tools for character development. As Bella progresses through the film, her experiences are reflected in her wardrobe. The initial innocence of her pastel dresses gradually gives way to a more daring and assertive style. We see her donning darker colors, experimenting with menswear-inspired tailoring, and even adopting a more provocative silhouette. This visual transformation underscores Bella's evolution as she embraces her agency and challenges the societal norms of her time.
She meticulously researched historical garments and silhouettes, ensuring a foundation of authenticity. However, Waddington also drew inspiration from the surrealist art movement. The unexpected juxtapositions of textures, the playful use of color, and the subtle hints of the uncanny in her designs all echo the spirit of surrealism. Artists like Salvador Dalí and René Magritte can be seen as underlying influences in the way Waddington imbues the costumes with a sense of dreamlike absurdity.
Furthermore, Waddington acknowledged the influence of contemporary fashion. The film was not intended to be a strict period piece, and Waddington incorporated subtle nods to modern trends. This can be seen in the use of clean lines and minimalist tailoring in some of the costumes, creating a sense of timelessness and allowing the audience to connect with the characters on a deeper level.
The result is a unique visual tapestry that perfectly complements the film's offbeat tone. The costumes are neither strictly historical nor entirely fantastical; they occupy a space in between, reflecting the bizarre and unsettling world of "Poor Things."
The success of "Poor Things" costumes is a testament to the collaborative spirit that permeated the production. Waddington's close collaboration with director Yorgos Lanthimos was crucial. Lanthimos, known for his unconventional style, pushed Waddington to think outside the box and create costumes that challenged audience expectations. Their shared vision for the film resulted in a visual language that is both striking and thought-provoking.
Equally important was Waddington's collaboration with actress Emma Stone. The costumes designed for Bella Baxter had to be not only visually captivating but also functional for Stone's performance. Waddington worked closely with Stone to ensure the costumes felt comfortable and allowed her to fully embody the character. This collaborative effort resulted in a seamless integration of costume and performance, further elevating the film's impact.
Waddington's Oscar win is a significant recognition of the artistry and dedication that goes into costume design. Her work on "Poor Things" serves as a reminder of the power costumes have to elevate a film and immerse the audience in its world. It's a win not just for Waddington but for the entire costume design community. It underscores the vital role costume designers play in filmmaking, breathing life into characters and stories through their creativity and meticulous craftsmanship.
The impact of "Poor Things" costumes extends beyond the red carpet and awards ceremonies. Waddington's work has sparked conversations about the role of costume design in storytelling and the potential for historical fashion to be reinterpreted in a fresh and innovative way. Fashion designers are already drawing inspiration from the film's unique blend of Victorian influences and contemporary elements.
Furthermore, "Poor Things" costumes serve as a testament to the power of costume design to push boundaries and challenge conventions. Waddington's daring approach encourages other costume designers to experiment and create costumes that are not only visually stunning but also contribute meaningfully to the narrative.
The legacy of "Poor Things" costumes lies in their ability to spark conversation, inspire creativity, and remind us of the transformative power of costume design in film. Waddington's Oscar win is a well-deserved recognition of her exceptional talent and a celebration of a craft that is often underappreciated.