Poetic and ironic at the same time, the Spring/Summer 2023 collection is like a cinema fairy tale with an unexpected plot twist: it starts out as a romantic comedy, it ends up as an action movie.
It is the story of an imaginary wedding, told on the dividing line between sweetness and irreverence, with a charismatic actress who seems almost to be directing the film, rather than being directed. Like the protagonist of Truffaut's “La Mariée Était en Noir” (The Bride in Black), she is fierce beyond all appearances.
“I wanted to speak of an unconventional romanticism, one that is tender but also caustic,” says Massimo Giorgetti, the Creative Director, “that is why I have explored the idea of a very intense woman, in whom both aspects blend together naturally.” There are photos of Milla Jovovich wearing a veil and a crown of flowers – from a 1999 copy of Dazed – on the mood board, and also some of Uma Thurman in a wedding dress from the Kill Bill film: “there is candor, there is magnetism, and there is purity, but there is also sexiness.”
With an iconoclastic spirit, MSGM plays with the cornerstones of codified femininity, rethinking them in a hyper-contemporary way. With insolence and a sprinkling of madness, it remixes the iconographic elements of classic wedding imagery, deconstructing them and decontextualizing them: from bling embroidery with small drops of glass and pairs of rings, like those which seal love, to lingerie that is scanned and then printed on fleeces and jersey-knit t-shirts.
From structured looks, with wide acid-washed denim flounces on a smocked fabric base, the collection moves forward with an increasingly light and sensual approach, with plays on see-through material and revealed bare skin. The tulle allows a glimpse of the feminine silhouette and reveals underwear, while flowers and ruffles outline the clothes, dressing the body in a tight fit.
Flowers bloom on the halter neck overalls in jacquard jersey, or on long dresses with elegant keyhole necklines closed with bows. White and black, red and denim: the colours are subtle and measured, only partially broken up by the neon insertions that are typical of MSGM.