The designer Heron Preston has always looked to New York as a source of inspiration for his eponymous brand since its launch, in 2016, with a collaboration with the NYC Department of Sanitation.
The dynamism and raw finish of the streets play a key role on each collection, one of the reasons why the brand decided to make its runway come back to the city during the NYFW. “My mission is to celebrate the people that make New York the city that it is”, says Preston. That means presenting real fashion and timeless ideas that don’t follow seasonality or ephemeral trends.
In addition to the brand’s everyday essential workwear - think of canvas fireman coats, frayed denim carpenter pants and utility shirts - the leather comes as an important element of the FW23, with police jackets, 5 pockets pants, among other items. Shapes are cut loose and finished with distressing and natural aging, recalling Preston’s affinity for vintage and pre-loved garments. Shearling and faux fur further can be seen in many aspects of the collection, from aviator, cropped jackets and coats to backpacks and carabiner handbags, elevating the NYC winter wardrobe.
Industrial textures find their way with rubberized dip treatments on fine silver jewelry and Tyvek foam padded tailored suits for men. Statement details reign over the womenswear, with soft leather barbed wire on accent footwear, tarp repurposed as closures on tailoring and chainmail-like constructions for tops.
Traditional college sports and extreme motorsports inspire the graphic direction and reinforce the designer’s penchant for mixing different worlds and making it his own. The varsity jacket is reimagined once again with new colors, materials and motifs. Flaming banners and motocross inspired graphics update dry fit tees and shorts for men, as well as mesh bodies and pants, and lace-up tops for women. The Heron Preston name is reimagined through playful flips on iconic NYC-inspired graphics including the HPNY, H.P.C Security and NYC Censored prints.
The footwear is updated with new styles for men, including the Toby Mid Top, a sneaker nostalgic of 90s skateboarding. The existing Block Stepper and other silhouettes, like the mule and sandal, evolve in new colorways. The level heel, a detail made famous by Heron Preston, is reintroduced as a hero item in the women’s collection. Fur and barbed wire trims add a statement appeal to stiletto boots, pumps and flat boots.
The ski and snowboard capsule is an exciting addition to the FW23, a full look with performance jackets, pants and thermal base layer set in waffle and fleece. Other technical outerwear options include puffer jackets, windbreakers and quilted vests produced from recycled nylon as part of Heron Preston EX-Ray sustainable initiative.