Staged in front of a sparkling Eiffel Tower, Anthony Vaccarello’s new collection translated the bold, irresistible allure of today’s femininity into a play of sinuous nightgowns and exaggerated silhouettes
For Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2022/2023, creative director Anthony Vaccarello drew on the contrasting facets of contemporary womanhood, its audacity and ever-shifting beauty to immerse spectators in what felt like a celebration of femininity.
Inspired by the aesthetics of British writer, heiress and anti-fascist political activist Nancy Cunard, the French house’s new collection reinterpreted the masculine-feminine wardrobe and fearless spirit of the late author in a modern key through superbly cut, minimal silhouettes and silky movements imbued with personality.
The show, which took place in Paris last night and was attended by Euphoria’s stars Maude Apatow, Jacob Elordi and Dominic Fike along with the likes of Victoria Beckham and son Romeo Beckham, Demi Moore, Riz Ahmed, Catherine Deneuve and Donatella Versace, opened with a long, silver satiny dress paired with a flawless black low-buttoned double-breasted peacoat, both worn by a model whose attitude was just as daring as the garments she presented. Made even more captivating by a pair of black, wide sunglasses, her catwalk served as the perfect icebreaker for the unveiling of the other looks from the collection.
Characterised by its simplicity and rigorous use of neutral shades such as black, ivory and light brown, Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2022/2023 saw models bring to life a wide, vintage-inspired selection of pieces — from big-shoulders overcoats and bombers to see-through, wraparound turtle neck T-shirt dresses — united by the same all-permeating grit: possibly, Saint Laurent’s most authentic trademark.
As electronic music by French DJ Sebastian set the pace for the unfolding of the show, Vaccarello’s muses took over the iconic pale pink Parisienne runway in faux-fur coats, loose suits, slim leather coats, beautiful black tuxedos and more, all coupled with glittery killer heels and chunky jewelry — light-reflecting geometrical golden earrings and wooden or silver bangles — in homage to Cunard’s own culture-defining fashion choices.
The only romantic touch of an otherwise hyper-sophisticated line being delicate textile flowers applied onto jackets and dresses, the latest collection by the Belgian designer reflected his ability to revisit, and simultaneously create, classics that have the potential to go down in history through immaculate designs that exalt the female form while embracing it in its kaleidoscopic, fascinating complexity.